Nov 14, 2011
Coordinated warp knitting and finishing technology creates in-line processes for seamless goods
Today’s fashions are stylish and comfortable, and change faster than they have ever done before. Manufacturers along the entire production chain react to these dynamics by constantly refining and revamping their production techniques, and cooperating closely with other companies is the best way of optimising the results. Cooperation between KARL MAYER and BRÜCKNER Textile Technologies is one example of how highly efficient manufacturing stages can be cleverly linked up to each other. This cooperation led to the development of a technique for continuously finishing seamless, warp-knitted items. The seamless components are produced in a piece on an RDPJ machine and selvedges are also knitted-in at the same time. These extra strips of material are used for pinning the fabric in the stenter during subsequent heat-setting. This enables the tubular components to be finished in the open width. This processing sequence, which features seamless transfer between the processes, has been successfully tested by a finishing company. Details of the relevant procedures will now be presented. The RDPJ and DJ machine series are perfect for producing seamless goods and items that require very little make-up. The two-bar raschel machines are uniquely flexible. They can be used to produce: tubular shapes having variable diameters along their circumference for e.g. incorporating body contours and thus guaranteeing a perfect fit, functional zones in specific locations, having different stretch values and stitch widths, e.g. for producing shapewear or for working borders at the arms, legs or torso, seams that are worked directly into the garment, open-work, jacquard designs with clearly defined contours located next to plain areas, different patterns in the front and back of the component. The fabric parameters can be set and monitored accurately thanks to the machine’s special technical features, such as the Multispeed facility, and other innovative solutions, such as the patterning, yarn feed and fabric take-down systems. For the practical trial, the RDPJ 4/2, with a working width of 138" and a gauge of E 24, produced three long-sleeved shirts in a fabric panel. The sequence of articles was defined by two selvedges for subsequent mounting in the stenter (Fig. 2). A core-spun yarn was processed in the jacquard bar and a standard yarn was processed in the ground guide bars. The fabric was made up of 81% PA 6.6 and 19% elastane. When relaxing and heat-setting conventional seamless articles, the tubes and stockings are normally finished individually. In this case, each separate piece is pulled onto a special frame before heat-setting. These small units consist of a dryer, a steam chamber and a tunnel for hot-air heat-setting. Separate technical options are available for finishing straight-cut tubular items and stockings.